Hermès Leather Guide – How to Clean and Care for Your Birkin & Kelly

Anyone who owns a Hermès bag knows: it is not just a bag. It is craftsmanship, investment, and for many collectors the centrepiece of a collection. What makes a Hermès Birkin or Kelly so special begins long before the first stitch – with the leather. And that leather demands care that does it justice.

In this guide, you will discover which leather types Hermès uses for its iconic bags, what sets them apart – and how to properly clean and care for your Hermès bag with GLOWBAG.

Why Hermès Leather Is Different

Leather is not all the same. The industry distinguishes between different quality grades:

–      Full Grain Leather – the outermost layer of the hide with the natural grain fully intact. The highest quality grade, exceptionally durable and capable of developing a distinctive patina over time.

–      Top Grain Leather – also from the upper layer, but lightly sanded or buffed to create a more uniform surface.

–      Genuine Leather – a frequently misleading term. It simply means the product is real leather, but says little about quality.

Hermès uses exclusively full grain leather. Every hide undergoes an extremely rigorous selection process: only hides with the densest fibre structure, most even grain, and no visible flaws are accepted for production.

For tanning, Hermès relies on its own tanneries. Tanneries Haas has been a key partner for decades. In 2013, Hermès acquired the Tannerie d'Annonay (known for high-quality calf leathers), followed in 2015 by the Tannerie du Puy (specialising in Box Calf and calf leathers). This vertical integration allows Hermès to control quality from raw material to finished bag – an ambition few brands pursue with this level of consistency.

The Most Important Rule for All Hermès Leathers

As different as each leather type is, these care principles apply to all:

–      No household remedies such as vinegar, olive oil or bicarbonate of soda – they damage the leather's structure

–      Alcohol-based products can dry out leather and disrupt its natural moisture balance

–      No wax – it seals the pores, dulls the surface and builds up in the stitching

–      No wet wipes – these often contain alcohol or fragrance and dry the leather out

 

GLOWBAG was developed specifically for the natural care of fine leather handbags: water-based, alcohol-free, wax-free, with natural ingredients including lanolin and orange oil. Before first use, we always recommend testing on an inconspicuous area.

Retourne or Sellier – what is the difference?

Before diving into the leather types, a brief note on the two construction styles you will encounter with the Birkin and Kelly:

• Retourne – the bag is sewn on the inside and then turned right-side out. The stitching sits on the inside, giving the bag a softer, more relaxed appearance. The classic choice for an everyday look.
• Sellier – the bag is sewn on the outside, leaving the stitching visible. The result is a stiffer, more structured silhouette with crisp edges. The couture look.

The choice of leather often goes hand in hand with the construction style: Epsom and Box Calf are particularly well suited to Sellier, as they hold their shape. Togo and Clémence show at their best in the Retourne style.

The Key Hermès Leather Types – Characteristics and Care

Togo

Material: naturally grained calfskin, introduced in 1997

Togo is one of the most popular Hermès leathers and, for many collectors, the ideal everyday leather. It is produced using a drumming process that creates the characteristic, softly raised grain. Togo is relatively lightweight, scratch-resistant and retains its shape well. Birkin and Kelly bags in Togo develop a gentle sheen over the years without losing their structure.

Caring with GLOWBAG:

–      Cleaning (GLOW CLEANER): Spray directly onto the surface and work in gently with the GLOW BRUSH using circular movements. Remove with a clean microfibre cloth.

–      Conditioning (GLOW CONDITIONER): Apply a thin, even layer, massage in gently and allow to absorb. Repeat every 4–6 months.

 

Clémence

Material: Veau Taurillon Clémence – young bull-calf leather, introduced in 1992

Clémence was originally developed for Hermès luggage and is therefore particularly robust. It resembles Togo but has a larger, flatter grain without veining. Clémence is noticeably softer and heavier than Togo – over time it develops the characteristic relaxed slouch, which suits styles such as the Picotin, Lindy and Birkin beautifully.

Caring with GLOWBAG:

–      Cleaning (GLOW CLEANER): Can be applied directly, as with Togo. Work in gently with the GLOW BRUSH.

–      Conditioning (GLOW CONDITIONER): Apply sparingly. Every 4–6 months. Avoid overfilling the bag, as this accelerates the slouch.

 

Epsom

Material: embossed calfskin, introduced in 2004 (successor to Courchevel)

Epsom is Hermès' most shape-retentive leather. The characteristic cross-hatch grain is created by a heat embossing process – the structure is therefore not natural but pressed in. This makes Epsom particularly lightweight, scratch-resistant and structurally stable. It is the first choice for Sellier-style Birkins and Kellys that need to hold their crisp lines for years. Epsom develops no patina, but holds colours exceptionally brilliantly.

Caring with GLOWBAG:

–      Cleaning (GLOW CLEANER): Spray onto the microfibre cloth and wipe evenly. As the surface is slightly sealed by the heat embossing, the product does not penetrate as deeply as with natural leathers.

–      Conditioning (GLOW CONDITIONER): Use sparingly. Epsom requires less conditioning than natural leathers. Every 8–12 months is sufficient.

Swift

Material: fine calfskin, reintroduced in 2005 (previously Gulliver until 1999)

Swift is one of Hermès' softest leathers. It has a barely visible natural grain and a silky sheen that brings colours to life with exceptional intensity. Swift is often the choice for smaller styles such as the Kelly Pochette, Kelly Cut or Constance. Its softness does, however, make it more susceptible to scratches than structured leathers.

Caring with GLOWBAG:

–      Cleaning (GLOW CLEANER): Always spray onto the microfibre cloth first – never directly onto the leather. Wipe gently and evenly, never spot-treat. Do not use the brush.

–      Conditioning (GLOW CONDITIONER): Apply a thin, even layer and massage in gently. Every 3–4 months – Swift benefits from regular moisture conditioning.

Box Calf

Material: smooth calfskin, in use since the 1890s

Box Calf is Hermès' oldest leather, named after Joseph Box, a London shoemaker from the late nineteenth century. It is very smooth, has a distinctive gloss and develops a beautiful patina over time – scratches blend into the surface. Box Calf is, however, highly sensitive to water: droplets can cause blistering or permanent marks. It is most commonly found in vintage Kelly Sellier styles.

Caring with GLOWBAG:

–      Cleaning (GLOW CLEANER): Always spray onto the cloth, never directly onto the bag. Work very gently and evenly – Box Calf is sensitive to excess moisture.

–      Conditioning (GLOW CONDITIONER): Apply very sparingly and distribute evenly. Box Calf does not absorb much product. Every 6–8 months.

Barenia

Material: natural saddle leather, used for handbags since the 1970s

Barenia is one of Hermès' most fascinating leathers. Originally developed for saddles, it undergoes an elaborate tanning process – double-tanned with chrome and vegetable agents – and then soaked in an oil mixture for weeks. The result is a leather that seems to heal itself: rub lightly with a fingertip and minor marks disappear. Barenia develops an intense patina and darkens over time.

Caring with GLOWBAG:

–      Barenia is already saturated with oil throughout. In everyday use, a dry microfibre cloth is usually sufficient to remove dust and light dirt.

–      Cleaning (GLOW CLEANER): Only for heavier soiling. Spray onto the cloth and use very sparingly.

–      Conditioning (GLOW CONDITIONER): Use very sparingly and only when the leather appears visibly dry. As Barenia already contains a great deal of oil, too much conditioning can over-saturate it.

Evercolor

Material: embossed calfskin, introduced in 2013

Evercolor is a comparatively recent leather with a fine, even grain and a lightly satin finish. In character it sits between Epsom and Togo: more structured than Togo, softer than Epsom. Evercolor absorbs colours exceptionally well and is a popular choice for the Kelly and Constance.

Caring with GLOWBAG:

–      As with Epsom – CLEANER on the cloth, CONDITIONER sparingly. Every 6–8 months.

Fjord

Material: bull-calf leather

Fjord resembles Togo or Clémence visually – flat, evenly grained – but is considerably heavier and virtually waterproof. Due to its weight, Fjord is used less frequently for handbags today, but can be found in robust styles such as the Garden Party.

Caring with GLOWBAG:

–      As with Togo.

Chèvre Mysore

Material: goatskin from the Mysore/Karnataka region of India, Hermès' primary goat leather since 2002

Chèvre Mysore is ultra-lightweight, scratch-resistant and particularly colour-vivid. Its fine, dense grain gives the leather a subtle elegance. Due to its robustness, Chèvre is frequently used as a lining, but also appears in smaller styles such as the Mini Kelly.

Caring with GLOWBAG:

–      Spray CLEANER onto the cloth and work carefully. Apply CONDITIONER sparingly. Every 4–6 months.

Exotic Leathers – A Brief Note

In addition to its classic leathers, Hermès also works with exotic skins such as crocodile, alligator, ostrich and lizard. These are used for particularly exclusive and limited pieces – the Himalaya Birkin in Niloticus crocodile is the most celebrated example.

Important: GLOWBAG is not suitable for exotic leathers. These require professional care from specialist workshops.

Hermès Leather at a Glance

The following table provides a quick overview of all nine leather types and their key properties.

 

Leather Type	Structure & Surface	Scratch Resistance	Patina	Best for
Togo	Naturally grained calfskin, softly raised texture	Very high	Gentle glow	Everyday use – lightweight, shape-retaining, versatile
Clémence	Larger, flatter grain, soft and heavy	High	Subtle	Relaxed slouch – Picotin, Lindy, Birkin
Epsom	Embossed cross-hatch grain, structured and lightweight	Very high	None	Crisp Sellier silhouette – Birkin & Kelly Sellier
Swift	Fine, smooth calfskin with a silky sheen	Low	Fine glow	Bold colours – Kelly Pochette, Constance
Box Calf	Smooth, high-gloss leather, very fine grain	Low	Very strong	Vintage classic – Kelly Sellier
Barenia	Smooth, oil-saturated, light natural sheen	Medium *	Very strong	Connoisseur leather – unique patina over decades
Evercolor	Finely embossed grain, satin finish	High	Subtle	Modern versatility – Kelly, Constance
Fjord	Flat grain, very heavy, virtually waterproof	Very high	Minimal	Weather-resistant & robust – Garden Party
Chèvre Mysore	Fine, dense goatskin grain	Very high	Minimal	Ultra-lightweight – Mini Kelly & special orders
* Barenia: Minor scratches can often be remedied by gently rubbing with a fingertip – the so-called "healing effect".

 

Which Hermès Leather Is Right for You?

Hermès leather is always a question of lifestyle. Here is a quick overview:

 

Togo	Ideal for everyday use. Lightweight, shape-retaining, scratch-resistant. For those who carry their Birkin or Kelly daily.
Clémence	For collectors who love the relaxed slouch. Those who prefer structure should opt for Togo.
Epsom	Perfect for the Sellier look and a clean, structured silhouette. No patina effect, but brilliant colours.
Swift	For lovers of bold colours and smaller styles. Requires a little extra care.
Box Calf	For vintage connoisseurs. Develops an incomparable patina over decades.
Barenia	For true Hermès devotees. The most patient leather – becomes a work of art over the years.
Evercolor	Modern, versatile leather. The perfect balance between softness and structure.
Fjord	Rare, but robust. For those who wear their bag even in the rain.
Chèvre Mysore	Lightweight with a fine grain. Ideal for smaller styles or special orders.

 

Conclusion: The Right Care Makes All the Difference

Whether Togo, Clémence, Box Calf or Barenia – every Hermès bag deserves care that is worthy of its leather. Investing in a Birkin or Kelly is not an investment in an accessory, but in a piece of craftsmanship that can become more beautiful over decades. In everyday life, regular, gentle care determines whether your bag shines just as brightly in twenty years' time as it does today.

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Further Reading

–      How to care for your Chanel bag

–      Louis Vuitton canvas: how to clean it safely

–      How to care for vintage handbags 

–      Fake or authentic – how to identify a genuine designer handbag

 

Disclaimer: Brand names such as Hermès, Birkin and Kelly are used for informational purposes only. GLOWBAG has no commercial relationship with Hermès International S.A.