Leather Quality Explained: Why “Genuine Leather” Is Not a Seal of Quality

“Genuine Leather” sounds like quality. What it actually says is simply: this product is made of real leather. Nothing more. Whether it is the best layer of the hide or the most basic one, the term does not tell you. If you want to recognise leather quality, you need to know how leather is made and which layer of the hide was used. The answer lies in the official definitions from standards and regulations.

At a glance

• “Genuine Leather” and the German “Echtleder” only confirm that real leather was used. Neither term says anything about quality.
• Cowhides are 5 to 10 mm thick and are split horizontally in the tannery. The upper layer (grain split) is dense and tear resistant, the lower layer (flesh split) is loose and less stable.
• Full grain leather is the highest quality grade: the natural grain stays completely intact, nothing is sanded off.
• In Germany, RAL 060 A2 and DIN EN 15987 regulate which material may be sold as leather.
• The more natural the leather surface, the more moisture and care it needs.

What “Genuine Leather” really means

In the USA, the FTC Leather Guides (16 CFR Part 24) state that products must not be falsely labelled as leather. These guides do not know a quality grade called “Genuine Leather”. The term only says: the material is real leather, not plastic.

In practice, “Genuine Leather” has still become a label for lower grades, often for corrected leather or coated split leather. The logic behind it is simple: anyone who uses full grain leather says so. Anyone who only prints “Genuine Leather” on the label usually has no better term to offer.

The German equivalent “Echtleder” works the same way. Under the labelling rule RAL 060 A2, any material made from tanned animal hide may carry this name, including split leather. So “Echtleder” is only a statement of authenticity and not a seal of quality.

Leather is split: this is where quality is decided

A cowhide is 5 to 10 mm thick, far too thick for a handbag. In the tannery it is therefore cut horizontally into layers. This process is called splitting.

At the top is the grain split with the natural skin surface and its fine pores. The fibres here are particularly densely interwoven. This makes this layer more tear resistant and more stable than the flesh split underneath. Its fibres are looser, the material is rough on both sides and less durable.

Put simply: the higher up in the hide, the better the leather. That is why full grain leather sits at the top of the well known quality pyramid and bonded leather at the very bottom.

The quality grades at a glance

Quality grade	Layer of the hide	How to recognise it
Full grain leather	Top layer, grain fully intact	Irregular pores, develops a patina
Top grain	Top layer, lightly sanded	Even surface, fine grain
Corrected / pigmented leather	Grain side sanded, opaque colour coating	Very uniform look, often embossed grain
Split leather	Lower layer (flesh split)	Rough on both sides, often coated or used as suede
Bonded leather	Shredded leather scraps with a binder	May not be sold as leather in Germany

Full grain leather

The top layer with the grain fully intact. Nothing is sanded off, every pore stays visible. The German Consumer Goods Ordinance defines “Vollleder” (full leather) in exactly this way: hides with their original grain side, without any part of the grain layer being lost through sanding, buffing or splitting. Full grain leather ages beautifully and develops a patina over the years. The best known example on designer bags is the untreated Vachetta leather from Louis Vuitton.

Top grain

Here, too, the top layer is used, but the surface is lightly sanded. This removes small scars, insect bites and other marks, and the look becomes more even. The term is not standardised, and every manufacturer interprets it a little differently. Top grain is a high quality, just no longer completely natural.

Corrected and pigmented leather

If the grain side is sanded more heavily and covered with an opaque colour coating, it is called corrected or pigmented leather. This makes the surface more robust and less sensitive to stains. Many everyday bags rely on exactly that, and that is completely legitimate. The price: the natural grain disappears under the coating. An artificial grain is often embossed instead.

Split leather

Split leather is the lower layer of the hide, the flesh split. Both sides are rough, the fibres are loose. It is often turned into suede. Often, however, split leather is also coated and given an embossed grain so that it looks like smooth leather. It does not reach the tear resistance of grain leather.

When it comes to labelling, the rules contradict each other: under DIN EN 15987, split leather must always be declared as such. Under RAL 060 A2, on the other hand, it may simply be called “leather”. Many sellers use exactly this gap, and in stores coated split leather is often only labelled “Echtleder”.

Bonded leather

Shredded leather scraps are pressed into sheets with binders. In Germany this material may not be sold as leather. The only permitted name is “Lederfaserstoff” (leather fibre material). In the USA, the FTC requires a statement of the percentage of leather fibres it contains. In terms of quality, bonded leather cannot be compared with grown leather.

How to recognise high quality leather on a bag

Look at the pores first. Natural grain is slightly irregular, just like real skin. A perfectly even, repeating texture points to embossing or a coating.

Then the cut edges: grown grain leather shows fine, densely interwoven fibres in cross section. Visible layers or a spongy, loose edge suggest coated split leather.

And read the label carefully. Specific details such as “full grain leather”, “calfskin, vegetable tanned” or a named leather type are a good sign. If it only says “Genuine Leather”, all you know is that it is leather. Which layer was used remains open. Reputable manufacturers are happy to answer this question for you, by the way.

What this means for your designer bag

Luxury houses rarely print “Genuine Leather” on their bags. They name their leathers precisely: Louis Vuitton its Vachetta leather, Chanel lambskin and caviar leather, Hermès Togo or Clémence. The name tells you the animal, the grain and often the finish too, and the right care depends on that.

Hermès shows how consistently leather quality is lived in the luxury segment: the house works exclusively with strictly selected full grain leather and even runs its own tanneries for this. Only hides with a dense fibre structure and an even grain are accepted at all. Which nine leather types come out of this and how to care for your Birkin or Kelly properly, you can read in our Hermès Leather Guide.

Because leather is like skin. Open pored, natural leathers absorb everything: hand cream, rain, denim dye. They need moisture regularly, otherwise they become dry and dull. Pigmented leathers are more forgiving, but they dry out under their colour coating just the same. Gentle cleaning and care that moisturises instead of sealing keep both types of leather supple. You can find more about this in our leather care for handbags.

With a high quality designer bag, regular care suited to the material is worth it. It helps keep the leather supple and preserve its cared for condition as well as possible. This applies regardless of which quality grade is on the label.

Why this matters to us at GLOWBAG

GLOWBAG grew out of exactly this interest in leather. Once you understand that leather is tanned skin, you automatically think of care like skincare: the GLOW CLEANER cleans gently, and the GLOW CONDITIONER then gives suitable genuine leather care and helps keep it supple.

The formulas are water based and contain no alcohol and no classic sealing care waxes. Such waxes can build up as a layer on the surface and in the seams. Products containing alcohol can dry out leather. That is why GLOWBAG was developed specifically for cleaning and caring for high quality handbags.

And if you are not sure which leather type your bag has: send us a photo. We will take a look and tell you which care suits it.

Frequently asked questions about leather quality

Is genuine leather real leather?

Yes. “Genuine Leather” means that the product is made of real leather. But it is not a quality feature: the term does not say which layer of the hide was used. In practice, it often stands for corrected leather or coated split leather.

Which is better: full grain or top grain?

Full grain leather is considered the highest quality grade because the natural grain stays completely intact. Top grain is lightly sanded and therefore more even, but less natural. Both come from the top, densest layer of the hide.

Is split leather bad leather?

Split leather is real leather, but from the lower, looser layer of the hide. It is less tear resistant than grain leather and is often coated to look like smooth leather. Under DIN EN 15987 it must be labelled as split leather.

What does “Echtleder” mean on the label?

Only that the material is made from tanned animal hide. Under RAL 060 A2, split leather may also be sold as “Echtleder”. This says nothing about the quality grade.

Which leather is the easiest to care for?

Pigmented leather with an opaque colour coating is the least sensitive to stains and moisture. Natural leathers such as aniline or Vachetta leather are more delicate and need regular, gentle care. Both can dry out, which is why moisturising care is part of every leather routine.

Sources

• Verband der Deutschen Lederindustrie (VDL): labelling rules for leather (RAL 060 A2, DIN EN 15987): vdl-web.de/leder-herstellung-pflege-arten/bezeichnungsvorschriften/
• German Consumer Goods Ordinance (Bedarfsgegenstände-Verordnung), § 10a and Annex 11: definitions of leather, full leather and coated leather: gesetze-im-internet.de/bedggstv/
• Federal Trade Commission (USA): Guides for Select Leather and Imitation Leather Products, 16 CFR Part 24: ecfr.gov/current/title-16/chapter-I/subchapter-B/part-24
• LCK Lederlexikon: Spaltleder (splitting process, grain split/flesh split, labelling practice): moebelpflegeshop.de/lederlexikon/lederarten/spaltleder/