Hermès Leather Guide – How to Clean and Care for Your Birkin & Kelly

If you own an Hermès bag, you know it is more than just a bag. It represents craftsmanship, an investment and, for many collectors, the centrepiece of a collection. What makes an Hermès Birkin or Kelly so special begins long before the first stitch: with the leather. That leather deserves care suited to its character.

This guide explains which leathers Hermès uses for its iconic bags, how they differ and how to clean and care for your Hermès bag with GLOWBAG.

Why Hermès leather is different

Not all leather is the same. The leather industry distinguishes between several quality grades:

• Full-grain leather is the uppermost layer of the hide, with its natural grain fully preserved. It is considered a high-quality leather and can develop a distinctive patina over time.
• Top-grain leather also comes from the upper layer but is lightly sanded or treated to create a more even surface.
• Genuine leather is an often misunderstood term. It simply means that the material is real leather, but says little about its quality.

Hermès uses full-grain leather. The hides undergo strict selection, with close attention paid to fibre structure, an even grain and visible imperfections.

Hermès works with its own tanneries and long-standing partners. Tanneries Haas has been an important partner for decades. Hermès acquired Tannerie d’Annonay, known for calfskin, in 2013, followed by Tannerie du Puy, a specialist in Box Calf and other calfskins, in 2015. This vertical integration allows the company to control quality from the raw material to the finished bag.

How to care for Hermès leather: the essential rules

The following principles apply to suitable classic smooth and grained leathers. For exotic leather, suede, nubuck or an unidentified material, consult a specialist workshop.

• Avoid household remedies such as vinegar, olive oil or baking soda. They can alter the colour, surface and finish of the leather.
• Products containing alcohol can dry out leather and affect its surface.
• Traditional care and polishing waxes can form a layer on the leather and collect in seams or recessed areas.
• Wet wipes often contain alcohol, fragrance or other additives and are not suitable for high-quality handbag leather.

GLOWBAG was developed specifically for the care of high-quality handbags. GLOW CLEANER and GLOW CONDITIONER are water-based and alcohol-free, and contain no traditional sealing care or polishing waxes. The Conditioner contains ingredients including lanolin and orange oil. Always test each product on an inconspicuous area before first use.

Retourne or Sellier: what is the difference?

Before looking at the individual leathers, it helps to understand the two construction styles often seen on Birkin and Kelly bags:

• Retourne: the bag is stitched inside out and then turned. The seams sit on the inside, giving the bag a softer, more relaxed appearance.
• Sellier: the bag is stitched from the outside and the seams remain visible. This creates a firmer, more structured silhouette with clean edges and a classic couture look.

The leather often influences the construction. Epsom and Box Calf work particularly well for Sellier bags because they hold their shape. Togo and Clémence are often chosen for the softer Retourne style.

The main Hermès leathers: characteristics and care

Togo

Grained calfskin, introduced in 1997

Togo is one of the most popular Hermès leathers and, for many collectors, an ideal everyday choice. A drumming process creates its characteristic slightly raised grain. Togo is relatively lightweight, comparatively resistant to scratches and holds its shape well. Togo Birkin and Kelly bags can develop a gentle sheen over time without losing their structure.

Care with GLOWBAG:

• Cleaning with GLOW CLEANER: Apply the Cleaner to a clean microfibre cloth and work evenly with light pressure. For a pronounced grain, a soft brush can help if the surface and condition of the bag allow it. Remove loosened dirt with a clean cloth.
• Conditioning with GLOW CONDITIONER: Apply a thin, even layer, massage in gently and allow it to absorb. Repeat every four to six months, depending on use and condition.

Clémence

Veau Taurillon Clémence, introduced in 1992

Clémence was originally developed for Hermès luggage and has a larger, flatter grain than Togo. It is noticeably softer and heavier. Over time, it develops the relaxed slouch associated with models such as the Picotin, Lindy and Birkin.

Care with GLOWBAG:

• Cleaning with GLOW CLEANER: Apply the Cleaner to a clean microfibre cloth and work carefully and evenly. Use a soft brush only if the surface and condition of the leather are suitable.
• Conditioning with GLOW CONDITIONER: Apply a thin layer. Repeat every four to six months, depending on use and condition. Avoid overfilling the bag, as this can increase the slouch.

Epsom

Embossed calfskin, introduced in 2004 as the successor to Courchevel

Epsom is an embossed, shape-retaining calfskin. Its characteristic cross-grain is created through heat embossing, giving the surface an even, structured appearance. Epsom is often used for Sellier versions of the Birkin and Kelly and generally develops less visible patina than more open leathers.

Care with GLOWBAG:

• Cleaning with GLOW CLEANER: Apply the Cleaner to a clean microfibre cloth and clean the surface evenly with light pressure.
• Conditioning with GLOW CONDITIONER: Apply sparingly and evenly. Whether conditioning is needed depends on how the bag is used and on the condition of the leather.

Swift

Fine calfskin, reintroduced in 2005; previously known as Gulliver until 1999

Swift is one of the softest Hermès leathers. It has a very fine natural grain and a silky sheen that makes colours appear particularly intense. It is often used for smaller styles such as the Kelly Pochette, Kelly Cut and Constance. Its softness also makes it more susceptible to scratches than structured leathers.

Care with GLOWBAG:

• Cleaning with GLOW CLEANER: Always spray onto the microfibre cloth first, never directly onto the leather. Work gently over the entire area rather than treating isolated spots. Do not use a brush.
• Conditioning with GLOW CONDITIONER: Apply a thin, even layer and massage in gently. Repeat every three to four months, depending on use and condition.

Box Calf

Smooth calfskin, used since the 1890s

Box Calf is a smooth calfskin with a characteristic sheen. It develops a visible patina over time, and fine surface signs of wear can become part of that patina. Box Calf is sensitive to water and moisture.

Care with GLOWBAG:

• Cleaning with GLOW CLEANER: Always spray onto the cloth, never directly onto the bag. Work very gently and evenly because Box Calf is sensitive to excess moisture.
• Conditioning with GLOW CONDITIONER: Apply very sparingly and spread evenly. Box Calf does not absorb much product. Repeat every six to eight months, depending on use and condition.

Barenia

Traditional saddle leather, used for bags since the 1970s

Barenia was originally developed for saddles. It is double-tanned using chrome and vegetable tanning agents, then treated with oils. Through use, it develops a pronounced patina. Very fine surface marks may become less visible with careful rubbing, but deep scratches or damaged surfaces cannot be repaired this way.

Care with GLOWBAG:

• For everyday care, a dry microfibre cloth is usually sufficient to remove dust and light surface dirt.
• Cleaning with GLOW CLEANER: Use only for heavier soiling. Spray onto the cloth and apply very sparingly.
• Conditioning with GLOW CONDITIONER: Use very sparingly and only when the leather appears visibly dry. Too much product can overcondition this oil-rich leather.

Evercolor

Embossed calfskin, introduced in 2013

Evercolor has a fine, even grain and a lightly satin finish. Its character sits between Epsom and Togo: more structured than Togo and softer than Epsom. It renders colour beautifully and is a popular choice for the Kelly and Constance.

Care with GLOWBAG:

• Follow the same cautious approach as for Epsom: apply GLOW CLEANER to the cloth and use GLOW CONDITIONER sparingly. Repeat every six to eight months, depending on use and condition.

Fjord

Bull calfskin

Fjord resembles Togo or Clémence with its flatter grain, but it is noticeably heavier and more structured. Water and prolonged exposure to moisture should still be avoided.

Care with GLOWBAG:

• Follow the same cautious cleaning and conditioning approach as for Togo.

Chèvre Mysore

Goatskin from the Mysore/Karnataka region of India; used by Hermès from 2002

Chèvre Mysore is very lightweight, comparatively resistant to scratches and known for vivid colour. Its fine, dense grain gives the leather a subtle elegance. It is often used as a lining and also appears on smaller bags such as the Mini Kelly.

Care with GLOWBAG:

• Apply GLOW CLEANER to the cloth and work carefully. Apply a thin layer of GLOW CONDITIONER. Repeat every four to six months, depending on use and condition.

A brief note on exotic leathers

Alongside its classic leathers, Hermès also uses exotic skins such as crocodile, alligator, ostrich and lizard for selected models.

Important: GLOWBAG is not suitable for exotic leather. These materials require professional care from a specialist workshop.

Hermès leathers at a glance

The table gives you a quick overview of the nine leathers and their main characteristics.

Which Hermès leather suits you?

The right Hermès leather depends on how you want to use and wear the bag.

Conclusion: the right care makes a difference

Whether Togo, Clémence, Box Calf or Barenia, every Hermès bag needs care suited to its leather and condition. Regular, material-appropriate care helps keep suitable leather supple and maintain its well-cared-for appearance.

Discover GLOW DUO for cleaning and caring for suitable handbag leathers.

You can find more answers in our handbag leather care FAQ.

Further reading

• How to care for your Chanel bag
• Louis Vuitton canvas: how to clean it safely
• How to care for vintage handbags
• Fake or authentic – how to identify a genuine designer handbag

Note: Brand names such as Hermès, Birkin and Kelly are used for informational purposes only. GLOWBAG has no business relationship with Hermès International S.A.